Hunterdon is wine country: Grow it, make it, drink it

   Hunterdon people love the fact that farms still exist here. Residents want to preserve the rural setting and regularly vote public funds to support this idea.

   But preservation is only one way to maintain a rural setting. When working farms close down, it is usually because they are not sustainable economically. Large tracts of corn and wheat have disappeared because many farmers can no longer make a living growing corn and wheat.

   To maintain farms in Hunterdon, farmland must be put to a use that is economically viable. Rural settings might be the desirable endgame, but the mechanism to get there is quite another matter.

   Peter Leitner believes he is developing one of the answers.

   “You need a high-value crop,” Leitner told me. “I believe that vineyards are an important part of the future of Hunterdon.”

   Seven years ago, Leitner started up Mount Salem Vineyards. It occupies 300-year-old farmland located at 54 Mount Salem Road near Pittstown.

    “Contrary to what the experts used to think, Hunterdon is ideal (for vineyards), if you plant the right grapes,” Leitner said.

   He has found the soil, the slope of the land, and the weather to be ideal for his vineyard. No French grapes here—they are Austrian and northern Italian.

   The first vines were planted in 2005, and in 2010 he established the winery. There are now 6.5 acres of grapes.

   The varietals produced here are the most appropriate for the local soils, he said. Reds include Blaufrankisch, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt (all Austrian) and Cabernet Franc (northern Italy). Whites are Riesling and Gruner Veltliner (both Austrian) and Pinot Grigio (northern Italy).

   In addition to his estate-grown grapes, Leitner sources grapes from other New Jersey vineyards. These include four reds (Syriah, Dolcetto, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo) and one white (Traminette). Mount Salem also serves as a Rutgers University test site for 10 Italian varietals.

   During March on Saturdays, noon to 5, people are invited to tastings here. For an appointment, call 908-735-9359.

   If you want to try your hand at wine making, there are some open-house sessions at Grape Finale, Raritan Township, coming up in March and April to introduce you to the process. Without owning a vineyard, you can make the wines you want — from crushing the grapes to labeling the bottle.

   Grape Finale is Hunterdon’s first wine making school. It was established last year, and open houses are set for March 31, April 14 and 28, 2 to 6 p.m. This operation is at 8 Bartles Corner Road.

   “People come here to purchase grapes, crush, press, and bottle wines,” said Lisa Van Den Woldenberg. “You can even order your own labels for holidays, gifts, corporate events. Some companies use their own logos.”

   She helps people through the process of making their own wines. She does not teach, but she can supply everything you need for wine making. All the necessary equipment is on-site. Currently, some three dozen barrels of clients’ wines are in process from earlier pressings.

   Wine can take months to mature. Grape Finale offers three different oak barrels — American, French and Hungarian. Each imparts a distinctive flavor to the wine.

   “Right now, we’re getting ready to bottle the Chilean wines (from last year),” Van Den Woldenberg explained. “By June, we’ll be doing the Californian.”

   To register for one of the open houses, call 908-237-0302. For more information, visit GrapeFinale.com.

   If you make your own wine, I suppose you could call yourself a boutique wine maker. But there is stiff competition.

      “We specialize in unique, small production boutique wines from all over the world,” said Erin Rogers. She is manager at Tewksbury Fine Wine & Spirits.

      This specialty shop in Oldwick is stocked with artisanal wines, craft beers, and fine cheeses from all over the world. It opened in 2005, and it is owned by Andrea Maranca. She personally selects wines from worldwide boutique wineries producing less than 1,000 cases each year.

      “We keep track of customers’ preferences,” added Rogers. On weekends, bottles are opened for tastings. There are monthly wine and beer clubs, and the shop delivers locally. It is open seven days — call 908-439-0007 for hours. For more information, visit TewksburyFineWine.com.

Reach Al Warr at 610-253-0432 or AlWarr16@gmail.com.